Bill Eichin

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• August 26, 1999, on Kitchen Remodeling:

  Okay, I agree that this is definitely a discussion of yuppie-dom. I mean, who would ever spend a quarter of a million dollars for a condo so you can eat lunch to the grand washer/dryer symphony in B-flat major? Geez, I thought that's what they make houses for. With basements. In the suburbs. To hide the washer and dryer. And the car. Anyway, I feel the need to add my two bits about pans. Right now my favorite pans are my cast-iron Wagners. Not too expensive. A little work to maintain, and very heavy. But, when seasoned and used regularly, they're a non-stick pan that can be used with other steel utensils. The absolute best over gas heat. They're dishwasher safe. And they're a sound part of any home security system. I like the few pyrex pots I've used, too. But anything's better than aluminum near my food -- even Calphalon, which is at least hard-anodized. I've never heard of Sabatier knives. But now I guess I know what to look for. I'm not Yuppie scum (yet -- but ...